2 October, 2006 | 1 Comment

While I’m living in Paris I’ll be writing a lot about my neighborhood, the Marais (pronounced ma-RAY). The Marais, which means ‘marsh’ or ’swamp,’ is one of the oldest parts of the city. In the 17th century it became home to the aristocracy and the area is filled with mansions (which now house many of the city’s most popular museums). When the royal court left for Versailles, the Marais went into decline and remained that way for much of the 19th century and part of the 20th century. It escaped the city’s urban renewals during this time and as such, retains much of its original character and charm. Many of the streets are Medieval-looking and very narrow and winding, with tiny little sidewalks, forcing pedestrians to walk in the street sometimes. (I took a photo of Rue Charlot, above.)

The Marais is now one of the most vibrant parts of the city, what my guidebook calls the Parisian equivalent of New York’s Greenwich Village or Chelsea. I don’t necessarily agree with this characterization. Yes, there are lots of restaurants, galleries and boutiques. It’s home to Paris’s gay and lesbian scene. But from my experience so far, the Marais has a real neighborhood feel to it. Unlike similar neighborhoods in London and New York, it doesn’t seem as if the area has been taken over by the rich (obviously, or I wouldn’t be living here). In my neighborhood, most of the residents are just average families, which is nice. The Marais is also home to Paris’s Jewish quarter, centered around the rue des Rosiers, where you’ll find synagogues, bakeries, delicatessens and kosher restaurants.

The Marais is home to many of Paris’s famous sights, including the Place des Vosges, the Musée Picasso, the Musée Carnavalet, the Opéra National de Paris Bastille, the Place de la Bastille, the Maison de Victor Hugo, the Musée d’Art et d’Histoire du Judaisme (Jewish art and history museum) and much more. As I explore the Marais over the next year or so, I hope to write about it and share it with you.

Tags: Marais